Leighton Farm
"Making the most of each thoroughbred."
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Leighton Farm "Making the most of each thoroughbred." |
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Tips for Retraining and Riding your new thoroughbred Some thoughts before we start Every horse is an individual, so I can't give you a "cookie cutter" answer to how to retrain your off track thoroughbred. Whether you got him directly off the track or from a farm, each horse has his own training requirements. These are based on physical strengths, confirmation and temperament. Add to that, previous injuries and different race training styles and it's clear you'll have to use your own judgment when working with your new horse. I work with countless horses coming off the track and what I'd like to do here is share just some of the things I've learned from them. The following covers what I generally do when a horse comes to me. Including how I answer some of the basic questions the horse has about his retraining. When a racehorse first arrives at the farm for retirement, he doesn't realize he's no longer a racehorse. It's not a job to him, it's his identity. Having been a professional exercise rider for years, I usually get on them the first or second day they are here. This helps me determine a game plan. Please understand that I know how to ride them correctly at the track so it's easier for me to retrain their aids, simply because I can start out where they are, not where I want them to be. I ride them as an exercise rider and we gradually work our way to riding horse. I don't encourage people to get on them when they first arrive unless they have extensive experience with ottb's. For most people it's better to give the horse a thirty to ninety day break before riding him or her. Although it is good to have a "work time" every day where you groom or spend time with the horse. This way you are giving them the the "human" time they expect each day and as training begins they don't have the attitude "What are you doing here?" They already expect you because you have been working with them every day. I will mention that most racehorses are reluctant to go forward when I first get on them. This is because there is no track or other horses to train with, which is what they expect. If the horse is sound and feeling good I begin a training program which includes learning to longe and cross country hacking. I don't like to ride or longe them longer than fifteen minutes because this new work is difficult both mentally and physically for the horse. I longe or hack them for the first week or two and then start longing them before I get on them by the end of the second or third week. Many times racehorses fret or become hard to handle if they are not in some type of work. Some people consider this a work ethic and for the most part thoroughbreds have a very good one. I usually start ring work seriously in the second month. I will work in the ring to make a sale or placement video or to show them to someone, but generally I like to keep it fun and easy in the beginning. Most horses love to hack, and I want them to learn to love their new life.
About Longeing Racehorses do steer, but rarely turn. This is hard for most of them to do. It’s easier for them to learn this without the weight of a rider. By longeing, you'll be developing new muscle the racehorse normally doesn’t have. This is the muscle he will need to lift his back and carry you in a balanced manner. We longe the ottb to teach him to work in a small area, which is something he is not used to. He must find his balance and learn to carry himself without the aid of momentum. It’s also helpful in establishing the new training routine. Another goal is to get him to relax. Do not longe the horse to get him tired so you can ride him. This will cause him to have a poor attitude towards training. Longeing should be used as a training aid. To teach the horse to find his balance on a small circle. It is also a great way to teach him the voice commands you will use, such as walk, trot, canter and the all important "Ho". This is also the time to define your relationship with him or her. By this I mean the horse should understand he is to do what you ask, not what he wants to do. I'll elaborate on this point further on in our discussion about longeing. You have to use judgment with each horse, because longeing for too long or too frequently will sour and even make the horse sore. Longeing has great training value beyond just letting the horse run in circles around you. Once the horse understands the basics of longeing, try transitions. Such as having the horse walk, trot, walk, halt, walk, canter, trot, canter, etc. You'll be teaching the horse to be attentive and obedient. He'll learn about engagement. You'll be rewarded with an improved ride and better gait transitions when you are mounted. Longeing will give you an opportunity to build a relationship with your new horse before riding him. There is the possibility your new horse already knows how to longe. Lots of racehorses are longed during the breaking process. I don’t have any definite numbers, but I know lots of people who break racehorses, employ longeing as a part of their breaking regime. There are tools you'll need to longe your horse properly. A 45 ft. longe line without a chain on the end, is what I prefer. A longeing caveson or bridle without reins. You can tie the reins up in the throat latch to get them out of the way, if you want. A longe whip to be used as an aid, not to hurt the horse. A contained area to start the horse with good footing. It’s a good idea to use protective boots or polo bandages to guard the legs against injury. Remember safety comes first. If you’ve never longed a horse before, it’s better to learn with a horse that already knows how to do it. It takes time to correctly coordinate the longe line, longe whip and horse, all at the same time. Add to that a horse that doesn’t understand what to do, and you have a potential safety issue. If at all possible I suggest finding a friend who has a horse that knows how to longe and ask them if you can learn with their horse. It’s usually not that difficult to find someone who’ll let you longe their horse. Longeing doesn’t have the reputation as being the most enjoyable activity you can do with your horse. However, done correctly, it can be one of the most productive. Wear gloves, a safety vest and a helmet whenever you longe a horse. Never longe your horse on too small of a circle. It puts too much stress on his joints and he could be injured. A round pen is the best place to begin a horse off the track on the longe. An indoor or small paddock is also a workable option.
Never, ever, allow the longe line to become wrapped around any part of your body, including your fingers, hand(s), waist, neck or feet. People have been injured and even killed this way. When you're reversing the horses direction, don't let the longe line drag on the ground because it could get caught in between his legs or wrapped around your legs. Always carry a whip, it's the easiest way to stop the horse coming in on the circle. It's also an aid in the prevention of being kicked. Never longe a lame horse, except to assess that lameness under the supervision of a vet. If your horse is moving in an unusual way due to a lameness, he could be further injured. Never longe your horse in only one direction. Longeing is quite stressful to his joints, and doing it in only one direction is a sure-fire way to make your horse sore. There are different procedures for longeing a horse. What follows are my thoughts on how to do it. Cherie Chauvin of Golightly Sporthorses was kind enough to consult on this topic. Put the bridle on your horse with a simple snaffle bit.
Remove the reins or tie them so the horse won't step through them and hurt
himself.
Position yourself in the center of the ring. For example, if you're longeing to the left, hold the longe line in your left hand and your whip in your right hand. Form an imaginary triangle, with the horse's body, the longe line and the whip. Face the middle of the horse. Send the horse out on the circle by asking for walk or "move out" and letting the longe line slip though your fingers. When the horse is moving on the circle you want, take up a contact. A twenty-meter circle is a very common size. Point the whip slightly behind the horse to ask him to go and put it behind you when not giving a signal. Be relaxed and calm. Tapping the horse with the lash of the whip or cracking the whip takes skill and practice. Start out at the walk if at all possible. If the horse is excited and trots or canters off, I allow that in the first week. I do use calming words to try to get him to settle and walk, but I don’t insist until the horse begins to understand how to longe. The goal in the beginning is to get the horse to accept going in such a tight circle and to relax. Assign specific words for walk, trot, canter and stop. Use them consistently so the horse understands what you want. This will come in handy when you start riding him. Control the horse's speed and pace with voice aids or clicking your tongue. Commands such as “walk on”, “trot on”, “canter” and “whoa” are universally employed. Ask for more forward action by bringing the longe rein slightly forward and ‘squeezing’ the horse with the whip by bringing it up and closer to the hind quarters. To slow the horse, say "Ho" with downward intonation in your voice. (lower your voice as you say "Ho"), bring the lunge rein back, let the whip point down and away. To stop the horse, as "Hooooooo and lower your voice, if he doesn't stop, say it again more firmly. When teaching the horse to stop you can head him into the wall or fence as you say "Ho". Flick or crack the whip to back up your aids only when necessary. Be ready if the horse reacts, and wait for the horse to relax and listen to you again. Keep the horse from turning in or falling in on the circle by pointing the whip at the horse’s shoulder. Be sure to teach the horse all three gaits on the longe. Don’t overlook the walk and require him to walk on. When he is stopped, walk towards him, taking in the longe rein as you go. Walk out to the horse, do not reel him in to you. That is in effect, teaching him to "run over" you. Make sure you fold the rein rather than roll it, to lessen the danger of the rein tightening around your hand if the horse takes off. To longe the horse in the other direction (called "changing the rein"), first halt the horse. Change the longe line to the opposite side of the bit, walk with the horse back to the center of the circle and then encourage him to walk out on to the circle in the new direction. Keep the whip in hand while you work on the horse. People have been injured or killed by bending down to pick up the whip off the ground. Try not to make the experience a big deal if the horse gets excited or upset. Just let him figure it out. Remember you're asking a lot of him. At this point the horse is struggling for balance, which until now they’ve achieved through momentum and traction. Most of the time, we pull their shoes and then make them travel in an area much smaller than they’re used to. It must feel like they’ve been thrown out on ice. It may be frightening at first until they find their new balance. So be patient. It’s best to start horse at no more than 5 minutes on each side. This is hard work for the racehorse and we don’t want him to learn to hate it. You can slowly increase the time as he becomes more comfortable with it. Normally the right side is tougher for the horse than the left, but not always. Many people say it’s because the racehorse only goes to the left, but I don't believe that's true. They jog the wrong way of the racetrack and that’s to the right. I've broken quite a few unraced horses for disciplines other than racing. Some of them had more trouble with the right side too.
If you decide to employ trotting poles, start with one. When the horse is comfortable with it go to two. Don’t rush this process. Trotting poles are good because they encourage the horse to reach down and take a look. This stretches his top line. It's also the first step in learning to jump. Trotting poles make the horse look where he’s putting his feet , which is a fundamental of jump training.
About Mounting
I teach the horse to mount from a block; I’m not as elastic as I used to be. I have a plastic mounting block and I walk in the stall with it and let the horse take a sniff. I usually don’t have anyone hold the horse. I then get on the block and wait for the horse to settle. I take my time and don't rush. I put my foot in the stirrup and wait again. Some horses are a little worried, others are okay. I do not get up fast; I slowly swing my leg over him and sit down very lightly. If the horse objects, I don’t get on, I start over. In this way he'll learn to let me get on from the block without fear. Occasionally, I have to get someone to hold the horse, but the fact that I’m in a stall, a confined area, is usually enough to get the horse to accept this. After a day or two, I put the same mounting block in front of the barn and get on there. I’m certain getting on from the ground could be approached in the same manner. Riding your new off track thoroughbred For new ottb owners, I recommend getting on your new horse when he longes comfortably at all three gaits, walk, trot, canter. I believe in every ride you must reward, reward, reward. This is not to say that he should be spoiled, but he must be told when he is doing what you want. You must keep in mind that it’s likely he has no idea what you want. Too often people are quick to correct a horse when he does the wrong thing, but they forget to reward the horse when he does the right thing. I also think it’s a great idea to longe the horse for 10 minutes on each side before riding him for at least the first month. It takes the edge off if there is any, but also warms up the new muscles you are developing before the rider gets on. Don’t ask too much of your new friend, too soon. Remember he’s had a regimented life and doesn’t really have the muscles to carry you in this new way. It’s best not to put a timetable on his progress. Each horse is an individual. When you come to an obstacle in your progress, if something doesn’t work, try something else. Don’t keep doing the thing you now know doesn’t work. Keep in mind footing is going to be an issue in the beginning. When you first start riding cross country or out of a riding ring, expect your horse to have trouble negotiating uneven footing. He may stumble or even look at the ground. This will pass quickly for most as they adjust to unlevel ground. The track is closed for harrowing each morning during training hours, this is called a harrow break. It’s harrowed and watered between every race. He may also tire easily when going up hills, so don’t do too much hill work too soon or he’ll become sour. Racehorses have a difficult time establishing rhythm in the beginning. They actually have a very nice rhythm at the gallop and jog, but these are momentum based gaits. When you take the momentum away they have difficulty finding their balance. Sometimes people mistake this lack of rhythm for lameness. When I introduce a new activity, I start on the rein that’s easiest for the horse. That’s usually, but not always the left rein. If your ex racehorse stops and is frozen, stop trying to go in the direction you want. Instead encourage him to go in any direction. In other words just get him going. Ride quietly and diplomatically, use voice commands such as “walk” and “good boy”. Over riding him in this instance could have very bad results. Turning When teaching turning, focus on keeping the body straight from poll to tail. This confined turning is new and very hard for the racehorse. He will tend to over flex or over bend. Once the horse is over bent he is uncomfortable and it becomes impossible for him to go the direction you want. You must first straighten him and then attempt the turn again. There is a temptation to use inside rein to steer, which usually results in rubber necking. If this happens, straighten the horse and then try to turn again. He can't turn while rubber necking because he's lost all balance and must shift his weight to stay upright. To restore the balance, you straighten him. All racehorses steer by weight on the inside stirrup. This is also how we are supposed to turn the show or riding horse. Think of dropping your hip and weight into the inside stirrup. The horse is then turning around that inside leg. It works, just give it a try. All horses will respond to this, it is not something they learn, it is their reaction to the weight on the inside stirrup. This is the best way to teach them to turn, accompanied by as little leading rein as possible. Use legs to keep his body straight. Use of the Reins and Hands This is an ultra-complicated topic that I'll probably be adding to for the rest of my life. In general, as in almost every discipline, we want to use the reins the least. They are really a straightening influence and should not be used to bend the green horse. Any bend should come from the inside leg. The reins are used as an accelerator in racing. When you pull back you are asking the horse to go faster. Understand that this is not really taught to the horse, it is the horse's natural reaction to go faster when we pull on the reins. If you want to use a leading rein to turn the horse, open it, do not pull back. One significant difference in the application of the reins is the way we "reward" the horse. In show and pleasure, we use the reins to ask the horse to do something and then we soften when he does it. That is his "reward" for doing as asked. Generally in racing, when we ask him to do something and he submits, we "reward" him by staying the same. That is not to say that we don't soften at times, but the racehorse is looking for a steady connection which means security. This is not a death grip it is solid, but supple. To stop the horse, sit up tall, stretching your upper body and arch your lower back. Close your legs and "squeeze" the horse into a fixed rein. This is better than pulling back on the reins which eventually most horses figure out that you are telling them to go, but you really mean stop. Canter Work Racehorses have been taught how to gallop, not how to canter. Many people think they are the same gaits and they are not. The gallop is momentum based and on the forehand. The canter is generated from the hind end. When you ask for the canter, stop posting, drop the weight into the inside stirrup and lead with your inside hip. Open your outside leg. Don't put is way far back, because this will cause you to have the weight in your outside stirrup. Whatever stirrup you have the most weight in is the lead you are asking for. Opening your hip on the outside leg actually causes your weight to go into the inside stirrup. At the track, we do not use the outside leg to get the lead. Only the weight in the inside stirrup. Again, this is a reaction by the horse, it does not have to be taught. Expect the horse to struggle for balance. It's best to canter only a few strides and then ask for the trot before the horse loses his balance. Gradually extend the amount of time you canter as the horse learns. As an aside, the horse will usually speed up when he loses his balance, keep this in mind when working in the canter. When it comes time to work on flying changes, keep in mind your racehorse knows how to do this. It was an important part of his job. Changing the your weight to the new stirrup is all it will take. The next time a race is on television, watch how the jockeys get the new lead. You'll never see them hike their outer leg back to get it. For the record, I don't recommend working on flying changes for a long time. I want my horses to have three solid, balanced gaits before I even approach this skill. Etc. Many racehorses know what spurs are. They’ve either had a rider use them during the breaking process or during training. There are exercise riders who use them quite competently. When a racehorse prances or jumps around, most of the time he is expressing his joy and enthusiasm. His rider at the track knew this and just sat there, relaxed and going with the motion. This is not a reason to get uptight and does not mean the horse is getting ready to do something bad. More often, it means he is looking forward to the day of work. Many times this situation turns bad because his new rider is afraid and becomes tense. This can be easily corrected by slowly teaching the horse you want him to walk. Always try to show him what you want him to do, not what you don’t want him to do. Many track riders don’t rise on the correct diagonal at the trot. This can be a cause of overdevelopment one side of the horse. Let’s take a moment to discuss racehorses and running off. Many people who consider getting a horse off the track express concern about the horse running off. What is running off? At a certain point in time during the gallop, the horse takes over and ceases responding to the riders wishes. Most of the time he increases his speed drastically, but not always. I once had a horse go three miles at a very normal pace, she just was not responding to my signals to pull up. The outrider wasn’t even aware I was being run off with until the third mile. Generally, no one gallops a horse three miles intentionally. I found this more unpleasant than when the horse takes off and goes fast because the horse didn’t get tired. Very few racehorses ever run off at the track. There are horses who are run offs, but this is rare. A run off being a horse that regularly runs off with the rider. One of the things that happens when the horse runs off is he stops responding to the bit. He pretty much clamps down on the bit with his mouth, preventing the rider from using it to slow the horse. It’s never good to fight the horse when he decides to run off. This exhausts the rider so he doesn’t have the strength to pull up when the horse is ready to stop. Most experienced exercise riders will tell you to try to hold the horse until the moment comes when he runs off. Then relax and save your strength for the spot on the track where he normally pulls up. It's likely that just by “sitting chilly”, the horse will be on the verge of running off and elect not to because the rider remained still and maintained the hold. Remember the horse is considering running off until he does it, and fighting him will make him decide to. Sometimes, during retraining, the horse runs off because he is bored with the activity. The most common reason a horse runs off at the track is the rider breaks the hold. Racehorses expect the rider to put their hands down and allow them to take hold of the bit. After that the rider is expected to remain still and maintain a consistent hold. If the horse is tough it can be quite fatiguing to the rider. Should he move and break the hold the horse runs off. Racehorses generally don’t expect to race train unless they see a racetrack. Consequently, when you get on your ottb at your farm, he may not know what to expect, but he most likely isn’t thinking of galloping. It’s important to remember we do jog and walk the horses on the track. In addition, we walk around the backstretch and in the barns. Racehorses are very controllable and are used to working in all three gaits. They shouldn’t be receiving anything near the quantity of grain they got at the track. In addition they will never be as fit. All this reduces the chance the horse will ever feel like running off. If your horse is strong, a harsher bit is not the answer. Making the horse more uncomfortable with the bit will likely get you run off with. Bits don’t hold horses, good riding does. The more a rider worries about being run off with the more likely it is to happen. If you do find yourself being run off with, remain calm, don’t panic. Tell people in a loud voice that you are out of control so they can get out of the way. Do not fight the horse. Don’t aim the horse at anything solid to stop him, this is dangerous and could injure both rider and horse. Keep your hands down. Remember the horse will get tired and stop on his own. Also remember they rarely run into anything on their own. Schooling the horse in an enclosed area prevents the option. It’s almost impossible to run off in an arena or small field. The racehorse expects the rider's hands to be down on the withers most of the time. The lower you have your hands, the more likely the horse will be tempted to take hold of the bit. The horse actually thinks you are asking him to take hold. If you find your horse is heavy on the bit, try lifting your hands and carrying them higher. Don’t pull back, just lift them.
In the afternoon you can see the horses come out of the paddock with the riders up. A groom is usually leading them and hands them to a rider who is waiting on the track. This is the pony girl or boy. Ponies are also used in the morning by some trainers and the outrider also has one. Almost every racehorse knows how to pony and finds comfort and confidence when they are beside the pony.
Safety is paramount on your first ride with your new horse. Always wear gloves, safety vest and helmet when you ride. Have two people, the rider and a ground person. Longe, and then put him in the stall. Belly the horse and have the other person walk you around the stall. If there is no bad reaction then get off. Get a leg up on the horse. Lower yourself gently on to the horse's back. This is a way to get a line on the horse before actually getting on. It’s also the way most horses are introduced to the rider when being broken. Racehorses are used to training on a flat, manicured surface. If you plan to start riding him on regular ground or cross country, remember this. Even if the surface a flat, grass covered area, there will be variances in the surface of the ground. The horse is not used to this and should be introduced to training on it carefully. Walking warm ups on cross country rides or in the ring are all that is needed in most cases. When you step into a riding ring or indoor, most racehorses do not expect to gallop. They expect to gallop when they see a racetrack. Most ex-racers are reluctant to canter when asked to in such a small area. Many have anxiety when they realize what you are asking. It’s worth noting here that racehorses do have a slow gallop, which is the speed of a canter; it’s just on the forehand, which in race training is correct. I’ve found lessons at the walk are successful. Teaching the horse to turn off the outside leg is beneficial and one of the first things I want the horse to learn. This encourages the horse to be less dependent on the bit. Racehorses are accustomed to training with lots of other horses around them. Most have more trouble training by themselves, than when other horses are present. It’s very helpful if you have an old or very quiet horse to go on hacks with. This is where using a pony comes in. A racehorse likes to keep his head at the pony’s shoulder. This is a position for the uncertain horse. Hacking teaches the horse to relax and enjoy his ride. There is stress and pressure related to being a racehorse. Don’t forget the fly spray. Racehorses generally hate to be uncomfortable and they expect the humans in their lives to remedy any source of discomfort like they always have. Up hill trot work gets him off the forehand and strengthens his rear. While riding cross country, begin teaching the horse to steer with the legs and seat. After a few weeks hacking, start schooling in the ring. Some horses naturally want to lead and others follow. If your horse seems strong and trying to get in front of the other horses, he’s likely not trying to run off. He may relax if you allow him to lead. Clues can be found in the racing form as to his running style which is his natural tendency.
Racehorses are usually good shippers. Some have only ridden in a van, so be patient when you introduce them to a horse trailer for the first time. When you first start taking your horse places remember the last time he traveled it was likely to a race. It’s a great idea to “school” the horse before actually going to a show or activity. You can do this by shipping to a show you are not entered in. Go to a park where he can be ridden with his pony or calm companion. This is a very relaxing and productive way to introduce him to this new purpose for traveling. If you are entered in a clinic or other planned activity, arrive early and give the horse a chance to settle down. Longeing may help, but sometimes can make the horse even more nervous. Always remember how taxing longeing is physically and mentally for the horse. It may be better to just hack around.
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Kimberly Clark 301-579-6898 |
Fold the longe line
back and forward over itself in your hand, never wrap it around your hand. Make
sure it’s not twisted and is comfortable in your hand. 
Racehorses have been trained to go from a stand still to racing
speed. It’s not uncommon for them to cut and run when they become
frustrated with the circle. It can be so fast that you don’t have time to
let go of the longe line, causing rope burns and possibly dropping you to the
ground. 
Thread the line through the side of the bit (the D ring for
instance)
then up over the poll, behind his ears, and then back through the bit on the
other side. Snap the lead on to the opposite side from where you are standing so
that if you are working the horse in a clockwise circle, the snap is on the
left, and the line is threaded through and comes out the right side of the bit.
When you work with the horse, this equalizes tension on the bit and better
approximates the feel of the rider's hand on the reins. It also helps to
balance the horse, and gives him less opportunity to lean on one side or the
other.
When the horse is comfortable longeing both ways, I put on side reins, very loosely at first. These introduce the horse to the new
contact we want to develop. The side reins coupled with the circle are a very
effective way to start building both muscle and the skills needed in a riding
horse.
At
the track a pony isn’t a pony at all. The pony is a horse who leads or
chaperones the racehorse. They also catch loose horses, as seen in the
picture to the right where Outrider Lisa Mcklveen and her trusted pony Otis are
shown catching a loose horse. Racehorses trust the pony and rely on their
judement.
You can use this to your advantage when re-schooling an ottb.
If you walk with another horse, keeping your ottb’s head at the other horse’s
shoulder, this is the “ponying” spot. Most ottb’s will relax and find
confidence when strolling along. It helps if the company you’ve chosen is a calm
and relaxed type, but he doesn’t have to know how to pony a racehorse. The rider
on the other horse can drop his hand down as if he’s holding a lead strap and
the sight of that hand will make the ottb feel even more secure. I call it
the comforting hand with respect to the horses I break, because they are all
broken to ponies. Racehorses that are schooled properly will run to the
pony when they get loose. Of course this is usually after they’ve had their fun.
They know the pony is a place of security.
When you first ask a horse to jump he only knows you are
pointing him at a solid object with two ways around it and then asking him to take
the hardest possible route. The best way to introduce the concept of
jumping is hopping over a small log on a trail ride. Preferably with
another horse who jumps leading the way. I wait until the horse is relaxed
and forward from the leg aids before I start jump training.